London Calling: Travel Break 1

As I write this post from Copenhagen, it is hard to believe many things: that today was my first day in class since the end of October, that I spent the past two weeks traveling around Europe, and that my semester is over in a little over a month. I visited London, Rome, Vatican, St. Petersburg, Novgorod, and Moscow. Today at DIS everybody was so excited to see each other, to catch up, and to trade tales of our time out of the country. There is so much to share about my two week eurotrip adventure, the best way to do so is probably just to share stories in installments.

The Millenium Bridge, as seen from the Tate Modern side

I spent my first few days in London with my childhood friends Dani and Jen. We were the best of friends when we were 10 and still going to Usdan, and were loosely in touch over the course of high school. But when we reunited in London, it was like no time had passed at all. We spent our time walking around, seeing touristy things, and reminiscing about the good old days. It seems like we hit every touristy spot in the city: Shakespeare's Globe, the Millenium Bridge (which gets destroyed in one of the Harry Potter movies), Big Ben, Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Whitehall, Downing Street, Trafalgar Square, the National Gallery, Portobello Road, and Oxford Street.

We saw the show "We Will Rock You," which is a musical with a questionable plot, illuminated by music from Queen. Though some of the characters were annoying, the songs were amazing and the entire show was a lot of fun. We spent the evenings hanging out with Dani's flatmates and friends from her study abroad program. We even ventured out to a Halloween party at a random club in London.

Trafalgar Square: It took such a long time to get up on this statue. We only made it because a random Italian girl literally grabbed me by the butt and pushed me up. Strangers took photos of our inability to climb, and somewhere on the internet there is probably a video.

After parting with Dani and Jen, I headed toward King's Cross (made famous by Harry Potter) to meet up with my friend Josh from NYU. I almost cried of joy, because seeing him reminded me about how much I missed school in New York. But we went for a long walk around the city, caught up on each other's news, and just enjoyed having a familiar face nearby. We cooked a luxurious hot dog dinner in his room. Not the classiest cuisine, but it was really exciting to have kosher meat since I'm a vegetarian in Denmark.

Josh was leaving for a week's break in Scotland and Ireland early in the morning, so I woke up, got out, and did some walking. I went to Temple and Fleet Street, and took a stroll around the London School of Economics. I met up with my friend Ben, and so began the craziest part of my stay. Ben invited two guys (Rich and Cody) who go to DIS but I did not know at the time, and they joined us at a random pub near Victoria Station. Then my friend Lana and her roommate came to meet us. After having a grand time, Rich, Cody, and I decided that we would stick together for awhile. We visited the Tate Modern, had dinner, and saw "Sister Act" in live musical form, and eventually headed back to Lana's flat for the evening.

Fleet Street, with St. Paul's Cathedral in the distance

Tuesday was a fairly quiet day. Ben, Rich, Cody, and I met up with another guy from DIS and went to the Cabinet War Room/Churchill Museum. We tried to get tickets to see "Inherit the Wind" with Kevin Spacey, but the show is sold out for months. We went to Leicester Square to see the Christmas tree lighting, to break the world record of most people singing Christmas carols, and for the premiere of the new movie "A Christmas Carol."

Ben and Rich being goofy

Since "Inherit the Wind" was out of the picture, we instead opted to see a play called "The Woman in Black," which I highly recommend. It was a gothic style horror play with just two actors. Unfortunately a school group was there, which made the audience a bit raucous. But I still really enjoyed the evening.

In a series of remarkable coincidences, Rich and Cody were also flying to Rome from London on Wednesday morning. We met up with Lana and her roommates at a sports cafe, then returned to pick up our bags, and headed off to Stansted airport for the next leg of our adventure. We took a bus to the airport so we could take naps, but I had no hope at a decent night's sleep since my flight was at 6:10 a.m. I flew on Ryanair, which was a little bit sketchy. But it was very early in the morning and I just wanted to get some sleep, especially since my trip had thus far been a series of late nights and early mornings.

Overall, being in London was very exciting - English was music to my ears, though it took awhile for me to understand that I was listening to a language that I actually understand, and not just Danish. It was nice to be in a big city again, though navigating public transportation was a bit daunting at first. I loved being a tourist for a short while, and seeing all of the sites that we hear about or see on postcards. But most importantly, it was lovely to see familiar faces and to spend time with my friends from home.

Fire Season

The past few days in Copenhagen have been crazy and filled with a ridiculous mixture of schoolwork and fun. I saw the ballet "Giselle," and went clubbing in Copenhagen's up-and-coming meatpacking district. I saw Muse in concert, went to the Icebar, and sang karaoke. I also managed to write a midterm essay, take three exams, create two powerpoint presentations, and outline a research paper. It has been quite hectic, but thankfully, things are really great.

Daylight Saving Time in the EU occurs a week earlier than it does in the United States. The sun sets at around 4:30 p.m. So I wake up in the dark, go to school in the dark, come home from school in the dark on some days, and obviously go to sleep in the dark. Cue seasonal affective disorder?

And so tomorrow night, I fly out to London for a few days, followed by a trip to Rome and a week in Russia. The madness of midterms means that fall travel break is here. So two weeks sans classes means two weeks of travel, fun, and games.

Icebar

We love karaoke!

Muse in concert at Parken

Allie and me during Muse!

On Danish Nightlife

On Being Danish: A Numbered Set of Lessons Learned Through Nightlife

1. Denmark is not like the US. There should be no looks of surprise on ay of your faces when I tell you that Denmark is very different from the United States. The culture here is vastly different, and therefore so is the nightlife.
2. Danes can be very anti-social. Danish people are known for being reserved and laid-back. They enjoy spending time with their personal social circles, which can sometimes be difficult to penetrate. In public places, such as bars and clubs, they are likely to socialize among the group that they arrived in, and only with those people. This means slightly less creeping than in similar American locales, but when it does happen, is can be much creepier. However, it should be noted that on the whole, Danes are friendly when you do interact with them. They will be straight forward and tell you their intentions. It is actually quite refreshing, and the people that you do meet are usually interesting, to say the least.
3. The ideal way to enjoy a bar is at a table. With lots of candles. This returns to the Danish idea of hygge, of coziness. If you are sharing drinks with your closest friends, you want to be comfy. You want a table so everyone can talk and Skal and just have a good time. Candles add to the mood, and warm up the room to add to your comfort.
4. Popular taste in music is questionable. Every so often, you might be out and here a song that makes you wonder just who is playing DJ wherever you are. In Denmark, I seem to have this feeling all the time. While sitting in a bar called the Happy Pig, waiting for the live musician to start playing, my ears were graced with "Mamma Mia" by ABBA. As a huge ABBA fan, I was excited but puzzled to hear this. I went upstairs to the club housed in the same building, and the first song I heard was "MMMbop" by Hanson. A few songs later came a song by Aqua. And while I do have fond recollections of this music from my childhood, I was shocked to hear it, even in this "disco." Later in the evening I went to LA Bar, a local favorite of business students. It tends to be a bit fratty, with a large amount of guys crowding the room. As we got past the bouncer and coat check and finally entered, I was shocked to hear "Dancing Queen" by ABBA, and to see a ton of guys dancing. In America this would never happen, for many reasons. But in Denmark, anything goes.
5. Cities develop in the same way. Copenhagen has a Meatpacking District. It is making the transition towards nightlife hotspot, much like its New York counterpart, but it is still functioning. Even though the area smells like meat, I easily had one of my best nights here so far hopping from place to place.

This is by no means an exhaustive list. Rather, a glimpse at some of my evening activities with some weighing in on what Danish nightlife culture is really about.

Happy Boys & Girls

We watched this video in one of my classes the other day, and I could not help but laugh out loud because everything is so true. Especially the part about riding the bus.

Good Citizens

Our last days in Helsinki were filled with Finnish culture and art. On Thursday morning we went to our academic visit at the Institute for Health and Welfare. We had a lecture, but had to leave early because employees of the Institute were staging a walk-out to protest governmental budget cuts. They were all wearing black and holding signs, and were preparing to walk to the parliament as we left.

That afternoon we went to another sauna - this time, it was the oldest wood-burning sauna left in Helsinki. All of the girls in the group piled in together to sweat it out. After about 45 minutes in the 100 degrees Celsius room, I called it quits. I went back to the hotel, took a shower, then primped before going out again.

Allie, Caitlin, and Me: Outside of the Finlandia Opera House

Our evening activity was a trip to the symphony, to watch the Helsinki Philharmonic perform. The show was lovely, and set everyone in the mood for a night out. After the show we found a restaurant where the hungry crowd could eat, and where we could sit at a big table and enjoy each other's company.

After lasting the last metro and getting impatient waiting for the bus, we decided to walk back to the hotel. On our way we passed by what seemed to be a hopping bar - there was a lot of noise, and a ton of people outside. As we walked, some fellows said, "Americanos? English?" Of course we said yes, and it turns out that they were with another DIS group. The bar was a karaoke place, and the best find of the entire trip.

Finnish people love slow songs for karaoke. My friends and I signed up to sing a Backstreet Boys song. While we waited, we witnessed a ton of odd choices. Some random Finnish man sand "Space Oddity," which turned out to be pretty good. There was also a rousing rendition of "Bohemian Rhapsody," plus some Finnish songs. But we were easily the best performance of the night. My friend Allie gave her camera to some locals in the bar so they could photograph our rousing rendition of "I Want It That Way," but I guess they got distracted since they ended up taking pictures of themselves. But we did get a few winners out of the night.

Our last day was pretty quiet. We paid a visit to the Chiasma Art Museum, where we saw the exhibit Elixer. It was pretty trippy, but the museum as a whole was very interesting. In the book store, I saw a book that I had worked with when I was an intern at HNA. That was a really cool feeling. But the day was quiet, and after a short lunch we went to the airport and flew back to Copenhagen after a wonderful week in the Baltic states.

As a whole, the trip was pretty incredible. It was a great opportunity to get to know my classmates and to bond with friends. But aside from the socializing and having fun, our group did some amazing things. We went to two countries that I would never have visited on my own. We immersed ourselves in culture, and got to know the feeling and flavor of each locale. We learned about healthcare, and the plight of real people in the post-Soviet era. We had a unique experience, a gratifying experience, and an enlightening experience - but most of all, it was a positive experience.

Architecture in Helsinki

Our first day in Helsinki was disgusting - there is no way around it. It was cold and rainy, and the wind would gust by and make you feel like you'd been slapped in the face by a giant. I considered taking Mary Poppins pictures, with me blowing away with an umbrella, but the umbrella kept flipping inside out, and I just wanted to go find a warm cafe corner.

Our first stop was the Temppeliaukion Kirkko, a church in Helsinki carved entirely out of rock. It was impressive to see, and it was nice to just sit inside quietly without and wind or rain.

After the church we went to the University Helsinki Museum Arrpeanum, a museum about the University of Helsinki and the medical school there. There was an enormous collection of old medical equipment and other medical oddities. It was really interesting to see what medical school, tools, and techniques were like a long time ago. There was a wall with models of babies with various illness that were used as teaching tools to help identify symptoms of different conditions. The building itself was beautiful inside and out, with a giant wrought-iron staircase and old-fashioned exterior. It was situated on the side of a square with a huge cathedral, sculpture, and fountain. The entire area was beautiful and the museum was interesting, but I would have enjoyed them more if I hadn't been soaking wet and and the weather hasn't been so dreadful.

We had free time, but the unanimous group decision was to hide in a cafe or some other warm place to avoid the horrible weather. After some free time for lunch and coffee, we jumped on a train to the Health Center of Kirkkonummi for another academic session about Finnish healthcare.

In the United States, we go to general practices with a few doctors and nurses who make up your primary healthcare. We see separate specialists at our own discretion, sometimes with a doctor referral and sometimes without. We jump around, and access healthcare in many different ways. In Finland, you would be a patient at a health center, a unit designed to meet widespread medical needs. In the office there would be dentists, ophthalmologists, and physical therapists, in addition to general practitioners. There is also a small hospital wing, with beds and nurses. All of these things are located in one building that is fairly close to your place of residence. The idea is that by making primary access to these services available, patients will be able to access care more easily, and prices will be kept down for everyone involved. The idea seems brilliant - make these treatments convenient and cheap with little to no red tape, and keep everyone happy. There are obviously going to be downsides, and the Finnish health system is far from perfect, but it was interesting and impressive to see how many services people could access at such a low cost.

The rest of the night was relaxed. Our group went out to dinner in what was aptly described as the Applebee's of Finland. We were slated for a "traditional Finnish meal," which consists of cream of mushroom soup, fresh salmon, and then a blueberry dessert. The place looked like it catered to American tourists, and the atmosphere was ruined by the jackhammering from construction next door, but we still shared a pleasant meal together.

After dinner the initial plan was to go out to a roof top bar. But I was cold and tired. SO some of my friends and I opted to use the sauna in our hotel. Saunas are an enormous part of Finnish culture - for five million residents, there are close to two million saunas. There are saunas everywhere - in even the Parliament building. We wanted to experience true culture, so we put on our bathing suits and went it.

Saunas are hot, usually kept between 60 and 100 degrees Celsius (between 140 and 210 degrees Fahrenheit). Our sauna was around 80 degrees Celsius. There were hot stones, upon which we poured water to create more steam. We took turns pouring the water and the stones and saying silly things (it felt like we were introducing an episode of Iron Chef). After about 15 minutes, you are supposed to get out, jump in cool water, then come back inside for a second round. By the time you're ready to get out, you are happy for the relief - you sweat like crazy inside. I have never been so sweaty from just sitting around in a towel (though I suppose that is good considering how often I do that).

Even though it was torturous at points, I felt incredible after going in the sauna. It felt like I had just exercised, and I felt like the toxins in my body had just melted out and evaporated. I went to bed that night feeling refreshed and much warmer than I had been earlier that day.

Farewell to the Enchanted City

It was with great fortune that my group was treated by sun (and considerably less wind) on our second morning in Tallinn. With some early free time, my friends and I went around the city, searching for cool things to purchase since Estonia is so cheap (10 Estonian Krooni to a dollar), and retaking some of out photos from the previous day so that they would look nicer. This is what Tallinn actually looks like, perfect clouds and all.

Later that morning we visited the Occupation Museum, which described the process by which Estonia became part of the Soviet Union, what the 50 year occupation was like, and how Estonia became an independent state once more. There were pictures showing Estonians rejoicing when the Nazis entered the country, and there are stories of Estonians joining the German army. At first, this seemed absolutely horrifying. But placed in context of the Russian occupation of the Baltic states, it makes sense. Which is worse - Nazis or Russians? People were so opposed to the Soviet occupation that they were fighting it in many different ways. For some men, that meant in a German uniform. After World War II ended, the Soviets remained in control until the collapse of the union in 1991. For a country that is younger than I am, Estonia still has an impressive structure, an active economy, and a unique sense of pride and joy in their recently obtained freedom.

The picture to the left is of the Alexander Nevsky Cathedrall in Tallinn. The church is Russian Orthodox, and it is like nothing that I have ever seen before. As beautiful as the building is on the outside, it is even more so on the interior. The main sanctuary was dark, and services were occurring so the room was filled with an eerie and beautiful chanting. The walls were decorated with elaborate gold moldings, and beautiful icons. I found one that depicted the last of the Romanov dynasty, among many other images of the Virgin Mary, Jesus, and the saints of Orthodoxy.

This church is located in the Old Town of Tallinn, directly across the street from parliament. Our tour guide on the previous day's walking tour explained that it makes an interesting juxtaposition, with Russia still looming over the Estonian government. This seems to reflect Estonia's place in the greater framework of Europe. As one of our previous guest lecturers explained, Estonia is a middle man. It is stuffed between Europe and Russia, and it is a point that connects the north of Scandinavia to the rest of southern Europe. It is the center point in drug trafficking and human trafficking routes. It is also a locus in the rising HIV epidemic in Eastern Europe and Eurasia. It seems like Estonia is still coming into its own as a country, feeling the pressures of nationhood from every direction.

After a second lecture on Tuesday, our group left the hotel and caught a ferry to Helsinki, the capitol of Finland. The ferry ride was smooth. I wanted to go outside on deck, but it was very cold, and windy, and the sea salt breeze was not as poetic as I hoped it would be.

Once we reached Helsinki, our group checked in to the Holiday Inn (which is much nicer in Finland than in the United States). We had a night on our own, so my friends and I wandered around, exploring the city and finding our way around. The architecture was interesting, a strange mix of modern and old-fashioned, with a splash of art noveau. It was pretty cold, so we found a bar/cafe (or baari as the Finnish like to call them) where we could sit, get drinks, and embrace local culture. We did not get a chance to mingle with any Finnish people since normal people are not out late on Tuesday nights, but we we did figure out the Metro, get to know the city center a bit, and figure out how to walk back to our hotel. Everyone was excited to explore the city further in the morning, and to see what makes Helsinki such a unique locale in Northern Europe.

Of Castles and Legends

It has been a long week, but indeed an incredible one. As part of my core class, Healthcare in Northern Europe, the 27 students in my track traveled to Estonia and Finland for 6 days. Our trip was a mixture of academic visits and sight-seeing, as well as plenty of free time for exploring on our own.

We arrived in Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, on Sunday night after a short but shaky flight. The plane was wobbling for awhile before take-off, which was not a great start considering how much I hate flying. But the flight was smooth, and I took a great nap. After checking in to our hotel, the group ventured out to Olde Hansa, a medieval-style restaurant. The decor was exactly how you would imagine an old castle to be - long wooden tables, lots of candles, and intricate tapestries. The waiters and waitresses wore medieval costumes (pointy elf shoes and all), and even the bathrooms had old style sinks and toilets. My food choices were a bit limited, but the point of the meal was the atmosphere, to introduce us to the culture of old Tallinn, and to allow the group to bond and relax together on the first night of our long study tour.

Jonelle and me with a waitress from Olde Hansa

Estonia is the farthest north I had ever been (though later this trip Helsinki would claim that title). At a latitude of 59°22'N, Tallinn is on a close line with Alaska. The weather promised to be colder than Copenhagen, but we did not expect to walk out of our hotel on Monday morning and into icy rain and gusts of wind, just in time for our walking tour of the Old Town. We walked through the cobblestone streets of the oldest portion of the city, taking in the view and learning about different sites.

As you can see, it was rather gray outside. This picture was taken at a dry point. But the wind was whipping around so strongly, picture-taking got a bit difficult. This was a particular problem for girls - half of the group pictures made everyone look like Cousin Itt. But despite the unfortunate cloud coverage, it was easy to see that Tallinn is beautiful.

The rest of our day was taken up by two academic visits. We went to the Terve Eesti Sihtasutus (Estonian Health Foundation) to hear about their work with the rising HIV epidemic in Estonia. According to the WHO, Estonia has one of the highest prevalence of HIV in Europe, with an estimated 1% of the entire adult population being infected. Though the epidemic is still concentrated in the Russian-speaking injecting drug-using population, the numbers are enormous when compared to the total population of Estonia. The Health Foundation that we visited targeted programs at employers and various companies, since an HIV-positive workforce is rising. We are not quite sure what the organization does or how it is financed since our guest speaker did not reach that point in her presentation, but it definitely got the group thinking about the consequences of infectious disease in Estonia and the rest of Eastern Europe.

Our second academic visit was to a general practitioner's office in Tallinn. Though our group got the feeling that the doctor did not particularly want to lecture to us, we tried to be open-minded and listen to her insights to the Estonian healthcare system. There is a shortage of doctors in Estonia, as well as a shortage of nurses. There is an increasing trend of medical workers leaving the country to seek higher wages (Finland is a popular choice of destination). However, the remaining doctors do what they can to provide adequate service and keep costs down. The clinic that we visited served 10,000 patients in the Tallinn area. There were exam rooms, a conference room, and a lab, as well as a salt chamber for respiratory ailments. Though there was no evidence, common belief in the area was that salty air was good for the respiratory tract when your illness was acute enough. Some members of the group were doubtful of the salt room's effectiveness, while others were captivated by the taste of it. (Yes, one student scooped up a small amount of salt to sample.)

The rest of the evening was free. Unable to bear the thought (or the price) or another medieval Estonian dinner, I went to dinner with my friends Caitlin and Allie. After dinner we wanted to go somewhere cozy, so we met up with a few of our other friends at a restaurant called "Peppersack." We sat for awhile in comfy chairs at wooden tables, sipping warm drinks.

After we finally left Peppersack, we tried to find a bar or pub so we could mingle with Estonians, but alas it was Monday night and normal people were in bed since they had class and school in the morning. We walked past the White Bar, which might have been trendy, but looked rather tacky without anyone in it. We also passed a bar devoted to Depeche Mode, but it was already closed at midnight. After failing to find any place that actually had people in it, we ventured back to the hotel, happy to have found some hygge and simply thrilled to be in Estonia.

Life in Plastic, It's Fantastic

When I first made the decision to study abroad in Copenhagen, it did not occur to me that things would actually happen here. And yet, Copenhagen is the home of environmental conferences, enormous cultural events, and other sorts of activities that lend to my countless adventures. Most recently, Copenhagen was host to the 121st IOC session, and the XIII Olympic Congress, where host city for the 2016 summer Olympics was announced. The four contenders were Chicago, Tokyo, Madrid, and Rio de Janeiro, and people from all of these locales made their way to Copenhagen to voice their support. Oprah and the Obamas were among the big names in town - I did not see them, though I certainly grumbled about how they disrupted public transportation and made me rather late to class, despite leaving early.

The true highlight of the entire Olympic event was the announcement ceremony, where popular music acts performed, and the host city was officially announced. I arrived at Rådhuspladsen in time to hear a live performance by the Danish band Aqua, of "Barbie Girl" fame. They are indeed reunited, back and ready to perform with more crazy costumes and hilarious songs laden with pop culture references.

When Aqua performed, it was actually a dream come true. Well, a dream of my 10-year-old self. And lived out in a way I never imagined. But still. I saw Aqua perform "Barbie Girl" live, in Copenhagen. For free.

I was still hanging out when the time came for the announcement of the host city. Chicago was the first to be eliminated. As cool as it would have been to see Chicago win, not to mention the United States, announced as a winner while standing in a sea of foreigners, I was not heartbroken. The other host cities had good bid presentations, and it seemed like the economic push that comes hand in hand with hosting something as big as the Olympics could be put to good use in other countries as well. Tokyo was next to be taken out, leaving Madrid and Rio de Janeiro as the final contestants. With great ceremony, the winners were announced:

Winning the bid is actually quite an accomplishment for Brazil. South America has never hosted an Olympics. Though there were people who doubt the city's ability to be ready for the games in 2016, but it is already slated to host the 2014 World Cup, so everything has to be in place (not to mention the Rio hosted the Pan American Games in 2007). Plus there are perks - almost all of the events will be held within city limits. Past Olympic games have involved locations far outside of city limits. During the 1980 Olympics in Moscow, events were held as far away as Tallinn in Estonia. But regardless, this is an excellent opportunity for Brazil, and it was very exciting to be in Copenhagen for the energy and excitement of the Olympic announcements.

In the Islands

It seems like I have more and more to blog about, and less and less time to do so. Things have been hectic, with schoolwork, reading, and travel-related activities. Though I'm quite in denial, I do have work, I do have tests, and I do care. Well kind of. I want to do well in my classes, but I also want to see Denmark, experience different cultures, and travel. Luckily I have been finding the balance, and will hopefully maintain it.

I went to Malmo, a town in Sweden that is very close to Copenhagen. It is an easy day trip, you don't need your passport, and it only costs about $24 round trip. Not to mention that I totally can just run off to Sweden for a day. I went with my friends Deborah and Lisa, and we shared a nice day together. We went shopping at H&M, had lunch at a random coffee shop, and spent time walking around and seeing the city. We chanced upon a gay pride parade, with plenty of 90s music blasting from floats filled with dancing people in sparkly outfits.

On a separate occasion, Lisa, Deborah, and I cooked a lovely dinner together, throwing together our random ingredients with the hopes of creating something delicious. It worked.

This afternoon I'll attend an AQUA concert (yes, the masterminds behind the "Barbie Girl" song), and then hear the live announcement of which city gets to host the 2016 Olympics. Then it is Sukkot, the festival of booths. Then off to Estonia and Finland until next Friday afternoon. Have a great week!

A Year of Magical Thinking

When the average person thinks of the fall, they tend to think of a new season, of leaves changing, of the weather growing colder, and perhaps of a new school year starting if you are of the student variety. But for many people, September marks the start of a new year. This new year is the Jewish year, marked by a remarkable string of holidays, too much food, and time with family.

This year, seeing as I am a little less than 4,000 miles away from home, my holidays are not quite the same. Different city, different language, different customs, different melodies - observing holidays here sometimes do feel like I'm in a foreign country (pun intended, it was the best way to put it). And yet, I feel remarkably at home. The events of my Yom Kippur, the Jewish day of atonement, truly reflect that.

I went to the local Chabad house for a pre-fast meal, since I was not sure of my ability to cook an adequate and filling meal prior to fasting for 25 hours or so (not to mention the potential trauma that purchasing kosher chicken would wreak on my wallet). I was planning on sleeping over there to save myself the 45 minute hike back to my kollegium, so I went upstairs, prepared my bed, and came back down to help out in the kitchen. At the meal, which usually involves eating potatoes with my immediate family, and worrying about being late to Kol Nidre (even though we never are), I definitely had a different taste. I sat with my friends, fellow Americans, bonding and commiserating over the approaching holiday and what celebration meant for us overseas. True to form, after dinner I ran upstairs to brush my teeth one last time, and then rushed to the Great Synagogue, because we were afraid that we would be late.

As I have described in my previous posts, the Denmark Synagogue is a sight to behold. I find myself comparing it to the Great Synagogue in Cracow - both locations have that old majestic feeling, decorated in grandeur that is uncommon in the United States. There was a lot of chatter, since most of the Jews in Denmark were congregated in this one building at once. I expected to feel lost, but I actually new a considerable amount of the Danish people, not to mention the American students who made an appearance. Seeing familiar faces, having people say that it was so nice to see me, and inviting to meals for future holidays - it was overwhelmingly like I home, and I was thrilled.

The actual service was intense. When the cantor began to sing Kol Nidre, the room went silent and I got chills. The whole room was listening, and together we welcomed the holiday and absolved our vows. There was a sense of unity about the crowd, not only because they are an enclave among a mostly homogenous society, but also because they were coming together as a community to declare their faith, to forgive, and to be forgiven.

The rest of the evening service was long. Because the building was full to capacity, I ended up standing in the extremely warm women's balcony for most of the three hours. The rest of the evening involved chatting with another exchange student with whom I was bunking in the Chabad house, then tucking into bed to get plenty of sleep before our long day on Monday.

On your average Saturday morning at NYU, you will have at least three options for services, usually four. That is more than in the entire city of Copenhagen. Here, there is the Great Synagogue, the small Orthodox shul, and then a reform shul that holds services and events once a month. Luckily there were options, so I chose to go to the small Orthodox shul for morning prayers. It was very quiet, with less than 15 women in our section at peak attendance. It was very quiet, and very conducive to quiet reflection. There were no speeches and no interruptions (neither in Danish nor in English).

Just as musaf ended around 4:30, I returned to the Chabad house hoping to take a quick nap, but found myself in a small informal lecture about the meaning of Yom Kippur. The Rabbi spoke of the importance of the day, the meaning of fasting, and the idea of the scapegoat. He provided some food for thought prior to the end stretch of the day. There was a minyan in the Chabad house and it started as soon as the talk was over, so it was right to it for the remainder of the chag. This was the first time I had gone to the entirety of all five services on Yom Kippur, and it was also the first time I did the whole day without a break. And yet, the last stretch was smooth, easy, and meaningful.

When we sang the traditional "Napoleon's March" at the end of Neilah, I felt like relieved, like the day was over, like the holiday was coming to a close, and like we had accomplished something. Rabbi Loewenthal spoke about how resilient people are, and it is true. As a community, we made it through the day. As an individual, I'm half way through holiday season on my own (meaning without my parents and family to cook and make it easy). I've established myself here in Copenhagen, creating a community with my classmates, other Americans, other visitors to Denmark, and Danish people. Everyone has a niche, and I am thankful to be carving mine out successfully here in Copenhagen. All of these things seem to portend a good year, and I hope that this is true for all of us.

A Book of Common Prayer

High holidays are usually the time when everyone clears out of school for the weekend, heading home to celebrate the coming of a new year with their families. Being in Denmark, I was not going to fly back to New York for the weekend, so I was set to celebrate Rosh HaShannah the Danish way.

Through a friend of a friend of a friend (not even joking), I managed to get invited to a random Danish family for dinner on Friday night. My friend Naomi is friends with a guy who is in the Israeli army, and one of his friends from his unit is Danish. She was invited to dinner, and extended the invitation to myself and to our friend Deborah. I felt a little bit intrusive, since this was obviously a family gathering and there was no direct connection between the family and the American crew, but they made us feel welcome and at home - it was very hyggeligt. We had an intimate home-cooked meal, and afterwards sat on the couches drinking tea and coffee, and nibbling on dessert fruit and cookies.

It is very unusual for Danish people to invite strangers over to their houses, so I felt especially lucky to have such a wonderful opportunity to celebrate Rosh HaShannah with a family. The culture of having guests is very different here. When Danes welcome others into their homes, these guests are close friends. It is very unusual for a Dane to invite strangers over, and it would be even more unusual if they were to invite last minute guests. Meals are carefully planned, with menu and the amount of food predetermined. The whole point is to have a hyggeligt time, and unexpected guests (and the consequences of not preparing for them) could hinder that.

The rest of the weekend was really a blend of going to shul and hanging out at the Chabad house. For the first day I went to the Great Synagogue. The building is old and gorgeous, and the chazzanut recalled times long ago, when the shul was probably full to capacity for all the holidays. There was definitely a large crowd, but the women's section was very noisy, and it was difficult to follow since the huge columns made it difficult to see down to the men's section. For the second day, I went to another congregation called Machzikei Hadas, a very small Orthodox shul that was a lot more quiet.

Being away from home for the holidays, I expected to have a very different experience. I did not think that I would feel at home. I thought that attending a random family dinner would be awkward, but it was nice and I felt at home. I thought that going to shul overseas would be strange, but it was pretty much the same as in the United States. It seems like no matter where you go, you can find something familiar, something common - a taste of home.

Political Fictions

0xKaren26 - Karen in Denmark seeking August's father - (2009) (Denmark)

http://gawker.com/5359252/free-affair-and-bastard-child-with-your-denmark-trip

The joys of Denmark, courtesy of Sarah.

Girls of the Golden West

This past weekend I traveled to Western Denmark with my program and core class. We did a lot of driving, some touring, and some academic activities. I'll write about the academic aspects of my visit in the near future, since most of the time was spent learning about the Danish healthcare system and I have plenty to say about that. We visited a hospital, a general practitioner's clinic, and the regional headquarters for southern Denmark. And while this was certainly an example of vast differences between America and Denmark, the non-academic parts of the trip brought to light the enormous differences between rural and urban Denmark.

Going into the trip, I thought that Western Denmark would be dreadfully boring, just farmland and not much else. To be brutally honest, the other cities that our group visited were not exactly bustling metropolises. Playing the New York City snob, I would call them quaint towns. But this difference in idea is part of what makes Denmark such a unique country, when considered in comparison to the United States, as well as when examined by itself.

Our first cultural visit was to the Rødding Højskole in the small town of Rødding. A højskole, (pronounced like high school), is a very unique institution, originally intended to prepare the uneducated rural youth to be active members of the rising democracy of Denmark. It was a way of communicating Danish culture, and preparing young people to be fine and upstanding citizens in the larger framework of Danish society.

Today, højskole is for students who are not sure what they want to study at university, and who want time to explore different areas and to really find themselves. These are boarding schools, which is a big part of the experience. Students live together with their teachers, which fosters a close knit and safe environment for learning and growth. There are no tests and no homework assignments - students are there only to learn.

The DIS group joined the students in Rødding for dinner and games - nothing fosters international bonding like a good game of dodgeball. We had dessert and some singing time, where all the students sang English and Danish songs. The favorites seemed to be selections from the Beatles, and other retro hits. After our activities were over, one of the Danish students begged to take us to Napoleon, the local bar. It turned out to be the only bar in Rødding, and it was on one of the two streets in the town. When we got there, it was a tiny, smoky joint. The only other people in there were three old people, who looked like they had been in the bar for awhile, and probably did this every night.

Our other cultural visits included a visit to a science museum, where I rode a segway (!). We visited a city called Sønderborg in southern Denmark. We had dinner at a restaurant on the harbor, and went to a huge outdoor concert in town. It seemed like everyone in Sønderborg was at that festival, rocking out to a band that is apparently very famous in Denmark.

After the music was over, a large group of American students headed over to local hotspot "Maybe Not Bob." Yes, that was the name of the bar. I don't get it either. But I had an amazing time. The place seemed like it was a scene for the underage crowd - there was a sign on the wall boasting an after-school special. It was a bit of a dive, with wood tables soaked in beer, walls covered in graffiti, and air so smoky you could hardly see the people next to you. But it was great music and great company. The DJ played some great choices (everything from the most current radio hits, to favorites from the 90s, to God Bless America - yes that really was played in a bar). But my friends and I danced all night, and all I could think was, "I really freaking love Denmark."

This entire experience was an experiment in nightlife in small towns. I am very used to being in a big city, so to me , Copenhagen is small. But for the people that we met this weekend, Copenhagen is the big city. There was something really nice about the way that people appreciate the small towns that they are from, and make the most out of what any city dweller might dub "limited resources." Though I do love the city, I am surprised to say that I had an amazing time in Denmark's south and west.

After a long weekend in Western Denmark, I was absolutely thrilled to return to my Kollegium and to be back in the city. Copenhagen is officially home, and I like it.